From Borscht to Battlefields: Ukrainian Cuisine as Cultural Diplomacy

In a war marked by brutal violence, existential stakes and geopolitical realignment, it may seem surprising that soup—specifically borscht—has become a symbol of national identity and resistance. Yet in Ukraine’s war against Russia, food has emerged as a powerful tool of cultural diplomacy, resilience and soft power. Ukrainian cuisine, from the humble varenyky (dumplings) to the iconic borscht, is playing an increasingly visible role in asserting national sovereignty, winning hearts abroad, and sustaining morale at home.

Borscht as a Battlefield of Identity

Before the 2022 full-scale invasion, Ukraine had already been asserting its culinary distinctiveness. In 2020, Ukraine began a campaign to have borscht recognised by UNESCO as part of its intangible cultural heritage. The move was partly a response to Russia’s long-standing claim that borscht was part of “Russian cuisine”. For Ukrainians, this was not just about soup—it was about the right to define their own cultural heritage, history, and identity.

In 2022 UNESCO granted Ukraine’s request, officially inscribing “Culture of Ukrainian Borscht Cooking” on the List of Intangible Cultural Heritage in Need of Urgent Safeguarding. This symbolic victory resonated deeply: at a time when Russia was trying to erase Ukrainian sovereignty through violence, the international recognition of a Ukrainian culinary tradition became a form of cultural defiance.

Culinary Diplomacy in Wartime

With traditional diplomacy hampered by war, Ukraine has turned to “gastro-diplomacy”—the use of food to tell national stories and build international support. Ukrainian embassies, cultural institutes and diaspora communities have organised borscht tastings, cooking classes and food festivals across Europe and North America. These events often double as fundraisers for humanitarian aid or refugee support, blending culinary delight with solidarity-building.

Internationally renowned chefs like Ievgen Klopotenko, a prominent advocate for Ukraine’s food culture, have become global ambassadors. Klopotenko has worked not only to elevate Ukrainian cuisine in global culinary circles, but also to educate the world about how food traditions intersect with historical trauma, colonial legacies and national pride. His cookbook and his campaigns around borscht have been translated into multiple languages, reaching audiences unfamiliar with Ukraine’s deeper cultural context.

Diaspora Kitchens and Refugee Hospitality

As millions of Ukrainians fled the war, many found refuge in neighbouring Poland, Germany, Romania and beyond. Ukrainian food often became the first bridge between host communities and refugees. Makeshift kitchens in refugee camps and church basements became places not only of nourishment but also of storytelling, where Ukrainians introduce their cuisine—and by extension, their culture—to the world.

Diaspora-led kiosks and restaurants, from Warsaw to Toronto, have flourished, with chefs using the kitchen as a platform for memory, advocacy and economic survival. In Berlin for instance the “Borscht & Tears” initiative brought together chefs and volunteers to cook traditional meals while raising money for Ukrainian hospitals and internally displaced persons. In New York, Ukrainian delis and bakeries have seen a surge of interest, with long-time patrons joining newcomers in donating proceeds to Ukrainian charities.

Sustaining the Home Front Through Food

On the battlefield and the home front alike, food sustains not only bodies but morale. In war-torn cities, local volunteers often cook for soldiers, medical workers and displaced families. Mobile kitchens and small stores serve hot meals near the front lines, while food supply chains—constantly under threat from Russian strikes—have been rapidly adapted to keep supermarkets stocked and kitchens open in the major towns on the front line.

Traditional dishes have taken on new patriotic meaning. Soldiers are offered borscht not only for its nutritional value, but as a taste of home and continuity. Canned or vacuum-packed traditional meals, prepared by volunteers and sent to the front, have become symbols of civic solidarity. Recipes are shared on social media, blending culinary nostalgia with a sort of wartime archiving of national memory.

A Counter to Propaganda

Russia has long used soft power to assert a pan-Slavic “shared heritage” narrative that subsumes Ukrainian culture under her own. Culinary diplomacy has become one way to push back against this narrative. Just as Ukrainian musicians, artists and historians are asserting the uniqueness of Ukrainian culture, so too are chefs and food historians.

Highlighting the regional diversity and pre-Soviet lineage of Ukrainian dishes, including Jewish, Crimean Tatar, Hutsul, and Galician influences, helps break the image of Ukraine as a cultural periphery of Russia. It places Ukraine firmly in the broader European cultural mosaic—and claims the dignity of a pluralistic, independent nation.

The Future of Ukrainian Cuisine and Identity

As the war continues, Ukraine’s culinary diplomacy has begun evolving into a longer-term strategy. The Ministry of Foreign Affairs, working with cultural institutes and NGOs, is developing food-focused cultural exports as part of its planning for post-war reconstruction and branding. This includes culinary tourism, regional food labeling, and global partnerships with chefs and restaurants.

There is also an educational component: schools are increasingly teaching the history of Ukrainian cuisine as part of a broader push to decolonize the curriculum and reinforce national identity. Cookbooks, food documentaries and digital archives preserve culinary traditions while adapting them for modern audiences—helping Ukrainian food travel across borders and generations.

Conclusion

In a war fought with tanks and drones, Ukraine’s fight for identity is also being waged with ladles and rolling pins. From the UNESCO borscht battle to the refugee-run kitchens in exile, food has become one of the most effective tools in Ukraine’s arsenal of soft power. It nourishes soldiers, tells stories and breaks through apathy and distance with the universal language of taste.

“From Borscht to Battlefields” is not merely a metaphor—it is testament to how cultural diplomacy, even through something as humble as soup, can affirm a nation’s sovereignty, inspire international solidarity, and help a people endure. Ultimately Ukraine’s cuisine may prove to be as enduring as her resistance.